Knitting Technology: Development of Maser, Polyester Blended Raschel Blanket
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Core introduction
Polyester-like cotton filaments imitate the basic characteristics of cotton fibers in terms of bulkiness, moisture absorption and gloss. They have both cotton hand-feeling style and high-strength and abrasion resistance of polyester. They are in line with the trend of today's popular fabrics and can be widely used. Taking, Home Textile and other fields. Polyester imitation cotton filament warp knitted fabrics must first be subjected to the shrinking process in the dyeing and finishing process. The boiling water shrinkage of the two fibers is different to form the imitation cotton appearance. After washing, the transverse shrinkage of the Fabric is 45%~60%, longitudinal The shrinkage is 10%~20%, and the fabric size produces obvious shrinkage, so the finished width and gram quality are difficult to control. In order to obtain a light-weight (gram weight less than 150 g/cm2) polyester-like cotton filament warp-knitted fabric, this paper analyzes the influence of the structure of the structure and the method of threading on the quality of the fabric.
The raw material is 6.66 tex/36 f imitation cotton polyester filament (Jiangsu Suzhou Jinhui Fiber New Material Co., Ltd.). In the warping process, the German KARL MAYER warping machine is used, the machine speed is 200 r/min, the pan head is 10, and the number of head lines is 110. In the weaving process, the KS-4 warp knitting machine is used, the machine number is 28 needles/25.4 mm, the door width is 1 066.8 mm (42 inches), and the machine speed is 800 r/min. The basic warp structure, warp structure, The weft-inserted structure and the satin weave are made of single or double-breasted, and 12 samples are woven by the method of full wear and empty wear. The process parameters of the sample weaving are shown in Table 1.
The sample was washed in boiling water with degreaser for 30 min to remove stains and oil stains, taken out and dried to measure the mass and density of the fabric. The fabric test results are shown in Table 2.
Table 2 Test results of fabric washing quality and shrinkage
Sample No | Water wash quality (g · cm -2 ) | Horizontally dense / (longitudinal · cm -1 ) | Longitudinal density / (horizontal · cm -1 ) | Washing rate / % | ||||
Grey cloth | Washed | Grey cloth | Washed | Landscape | Portrait | Total shrinkage | ||
1 | 98 | 12.0 | 22.0 | 20.0 | 21.0 | 45.45 | 4.76 | 48.05 |
2 | 104 | 12.0 | 24.0 | 20.0 | 36.0 | 50.00 | 44.44 | 72.22 |
3-1 | 148 | 6.0 | 11.0 | 20.0 | 29.0 | 45.45 | 31.03 | 62.38 |
3-2 | 126 | 6.0 | 12.5 | 17.5 | 22.0 | 52.00 | 20.45 | 61.81 |
4-1 | 156 | 12.0 | 21.0 | 20.0 | 36.0 | 42.86 | 44.44 | 68.25 |
4-2 | 128 | 12.0 | 21.0 | 17.5 | 32.0 | 42.86 | 45.31 | 68.75 |
5 | 186 | 12.0 | 18.0 | 20.0 | 21.0 | 33.33 | 4.76 | 36.51 |
6 | 153 | 12.0 | 19.0 | 20.0 | 21.0 | 36.84 | 4.76 | 39.85 |
7 | 156 | 12.0 | 18.5 | 20.0 | 22.0 | 35.14 | 9.09 | 41.03 |
8 | 161 | 12.0 | 16.5 | 20.0 | 21.0 | 27.27 | 4.76 | 30.74 |
9 | 181 | 12.0 | 24.0 | 20.0 | 21.0 | 50.00 | 4.76 | 52.38 |
10 | 120 | 12.0 | 18.0 | 20.0 | 25.0 | 33.33 | 37.50 | 58.33 |
2.1 fabric structure
The imitation cotton filament has the shrinking property, the mesh of the mesh tissue is large, the shrinking space is large, and the shrinkage rate after washing is large, so the quality of the water washing is large. When the number of combs, the pulling density and the threading method are the same, the change of the fabric structure has a certain influence on the quality of the water wash, but the fabric quality is not reduced to 150 g / cm 2 , but the number of combs and the way of threading It has a great influence on the quality of the fabric.
2.2 fabric delivery volume
The amount of fabric feed is affected by the texture of the fabric and the tensile density, and the elongation line is long and the amount of warp is large. There is a negative correlation between the amount of feed and the mass of the gram, that is, the amount of warp is small, the mass of fabric is increased; the amount of warp is large, and the mass of fabric is reduced, but the linear correlation is not significant.
2.3 fabric pulling density
In the case where the organization is the same and the number of empty passes is the same, the pull density is lowered, and the water wash quality of the fabric is significantly reduced. Due to the large shrinkage characteristics of the imitation cotton filaments, the transverse and longitudinal density of the fabric after washing is increased ; however, there is no obvious correlation between the transverse density and the mass of the gram, which is because the transverse density is determined by the machine number; The negative correlation of the gram mass is weak due to the small range of longitudinal density variation of the sample.
2.4 fabric washing rate
For warp knitted fabrics, the transverse direction is connected by the extension line, so the lateral contraction is mainly affected by the friction between the extension line and the intersection; the longitudinal direction is the mutual string between the coils, so it is mainly affected by the coil; the sample results show that the horizontal washing The shrinkage rate is greater than the longitudinal water wash rate. The double-combed plain fabric has a smaller shrinkage than the mesh fabric, because the double-comb is full of basic structure (chaining, weft-inserting, warp-like structure), and the fabric is relatively difficult to shrink longitudinally, which reduces the shrinkage. . The total shrinkage of the mesh tissue is significantly larger than that of other tissue samples. This is due to the presence of mesh in the fabric, a large gap between the yarns, and sufficient shrinkage space. Therefore, the sample shrinks more than the plain fabric after washing. The transverse, longitudinal and total shrinkage of the fabric were negatively correlated with the mass of the gram, but the correlation was not significant, indicating that the shrinkage, the structure and the pulling density all affect the fabric quality.
For the two-comb-wearing plain polyester-like cotton-knitted warp-knitted fabric, although the two-needle flat and weft-inserted structure can make the gram mass relatively small, it is difficult to reach 150 g/cm2 or less. For the two combs to form a small mesh structure, the fabric quality can be reduced to a large extent. Due to the large water washing shrinkage of the mesh fabric, the small mesh shrinkage after washing can obtain a plain Woven Fabric with a small gram mass, thereby obtaining the effect of a light and light imitation cotton fabric. Pulling density is one of the important factors affecting the quality of fabric. If the fabric with smaller gram mass is to be obtained, in addition to changing the structure and the air permeability, the pulling density during weaving needs to be controlled below 20 courses/cm. The light and thin polyester imitation cotton filament warp knitted fabric developed for shirts and thin T-shirt fabrics can better solve the problem that polyester imitation cotton filaments can only produce thick and heavy warp knit fabrics.
This article is excerpted from the "Knitting Industry" 2016 sixth issue of the magazine, please indicate the source!
Author: Ministry of Education knitting Engineering Research Center, Southern Yangtze University
Chen Qing, Zuo Wenjun, Li Qianwen, Li Yujiao, Liu Susu, Cao Jingjing
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